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Off-Season Fun in
Atlantic City
By Emily Parks Originally published in February 2012
Atlantic City is one of America’s
playgrounds; this city entertains millions during the peak summer months with
its casino gambling, miles of beaches and Vegas-style entertainment venues. But
Atlantic City is also a year-round destination vacation, with much to offer
during the fall and winter months.

Elaine Zamansky, media relations
manager with the Atlantic City Convention and Visitors Authority, notes,
“Atlantic City is an exciting destination any time of year. Obviously, the
summer offers beach activities, outdoor dining and other events that aren’t suitable
for colder weather, but the rest of the year there are myriad events like
Atlantic City Restaurant Week, the rodeo, special holiday celebrations and public
events at the Atlantic City Convention Center.”
Accommodations in Atlantic City
run the gamut to fit any budget, from hotels, motels and inns to the incredibly
stylish Vegas-style casino resorts. Many resort casinos now flood the
landscape, such as Caesar’s Atlantic City, Harrah’s Atlantic City and the Trump
Taj Mahal Casino Resort, but the Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa is helping
Atlantic City reinvent itself as the Las Vegas of the East. A crown jewel of
the city, the Borgata became the city’s first new casino in over a decade when it
opened in 2003. The casino hotel’s 2,000-plus rooms and suites are bathed in
customized lighting, 300-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets and spacious white
marbled bathrooms with a shower for two. Celebrated chefs Bobby Flay, Michael
Mina and Wolfgang Puck comprise some of Borgata’s stellar lineup of fine dining
restaurants with Bobby Flay Steak, Seablue and Wolfgang Puck American Grille. For
foodies, in the fall the Borgata offers SAVOR BORGATA Restaurant Week, where each
restaurant located in the casino hotel is represented with their own culinary
station, offering guests the exclusive opportunity to meet Borgata’s world
class chefs while sampling their unique approach to cuisine paired with some of
the best wine, beer and spirits.
The Borgata offers the excitement
of casino gaming, its European-style 54,000-square-foot Spa Toccare as well as
headline acts performing at Borgata’s entertainment venues. Guests could easily
spend the entire time at the resort enjoying its whimsical opulence and never
get bored. Shuttle service from the Borgata takes you right to the boardwalk, so
all the boardwalk amenities are still within arm’s reach.
When hunger strikes,
Atlantic City has dining options to fit any budget, from sleek fine dining
options available at the casino resorts to an Atlantic City institution, White House
Sub Shop. Located off the boardwalk a few blocks behind the beachfront casinos,
it is a shoebox sized funky little place that has been around since the mid- to
late 1940s. And the shop has the memorabilia to prove it, including Frank
Sinatra’s towel used in his last show in Atlantic City. Many swear by the
cheese steak or the Italian sub, but with any of their massive overstuffed
sandwiches, you’ll walk away more than satisfied.
As for activities for the
non-gamers, or those who just need a break from gaming, plenty of other
activities abound. For the athletic types, the cooler fall months bring the Atlantic
City marathon in October. The event also offers a half marathon, 10k and 5k,
with the race course winding past boardwalk attractions and showcasing historic
landmarks, including Lucy the Elephant, Boardwalk Hall and all 11 casinos before
meandering through sleepy beach towns. The course is walker friendly for athletes
who would rather amble along, taking in the sights on the course instead of
setting a personal record.
For those looking to enjoy
the outdoors but don’t feel like putting on a pair of running shoes, whale and
dolphin watching provide an opportunity to see these majestic animals in their natural
habitat. Atlantic City Cruises departs from Historic Gardener’s Basin on
certain days during the months of September and October as well as April and
May. Their Dolphin Watching Adventure features leaping, frolicking dolphins as
you head into the open ocean in search of marine life. An onboard marine
naturalist also provides educational commentary during the tour. Tours are
usually at 1pm and last for approximately two hours with ticket prices at $34
for adults and $17 for children with discounts for seniors, military and
students with ID. Nearby Cape May also offers whale watching through Cape May
Whale Watcher.
For those of you more
comfortable learning while on land, consider a trolley tour or a visit to the
Atlantic City Aquarium. The Great American Trolley Company offers a Roaring 20s
Tour, a four-hour tour that allows you to relive life in Prohibition-Era Atlantic
City during the Golden Era of the 1920s, currently made popular by HBO’s
Emmy-award winning show “Boardwalk Empire,” when the city was a premier draw,
with its grant hotels, ‘Speakeasies,’ and freewheeling nightlife. Tour prices
are $25 for adults and $20 for children. Add a side trip to Princeton Antiques Bookservice,
which in addition to helping customers locate hard-to-find books, also has a
vast collection of over 20,000 images of old Atlantic City. Spend hours
browsing several decades’ worth of old photographs and postcards of the beach,
boardwalk, businesses, piers, trolley and much more.
The Atlantic City Aquarium,
located in Historic Gardner’s Basin, is a three-story aquarium and interactive marine
life education center. With 11 tanks exhibiting more than 100 varieties of
fish, visitors can observe the fish of the mid-Atlantic Ocean such as flounder
and striped bass in addition to “Groman,” the resident loggerhead turtle. Peer
at moray eels, venomous fish and live jellyfish as well. Touch tanks allow
visitors to “pet” starfish, crabs, sharks and other sea life. In addition, a
16-station computer center uses interactive games and information stations to allow
visitors to take a self-tour. The Atlantic City Aquarium is open daily, with
admission prices at $8 for adults and $5 for children; kids 3 and under are
admitted free.
Within walking distance
from the Showboat Casino on the boardwalk is New Jersey’s tallest lighthouse, Historic
Absecon Lighthouse. Ascend the 228 steps of the lighthouse, one of the oldest
lighthouses in the country. Take in breathtaking views of Atlantic City and see
the original first-order Fresnel Lens, first lit in 1857. As part of the
lighthouse’s recent multi-million dollar restoration, check out the replica of
the Lightkeeper’s dwelling, and educational museum, gift shop and Fresnel Lens
exhibit. Cost to climb the lighthouse is adults, $7 and children, $4; kids 3
and under are admitted free. Parking and admission to the Keeper’s House
museum, exhibits and grounds is free.

In addition to warmer
weather, spring also brings the Atlantic City Restaurant Week held March 4-10, a
week-long celebration of delicious food presented by some of the talented chefs
located in the Atlantic City area. With more than 70 restaurants participating
with a $15.12 price for lunch and $33.12 for dinner, diners can try a new
restaurant or enjoy an old favorite. Foodies may also enjoy the Atlantic City
Beer Fest held at the end of March.
Another spring attraction
is the Atlantic City boardwalk rodeo. Held March 31-April 1 in the Historic Boardwalk
Hall Arena, this rodeo is the biggest on the East Coast, with seven events:
bareback, tie down, saddle bronc, team roping, barrel racing, steer wrestling
and bull riding along with the grand entry and additional specialty acts.
Ticket prices are $16, $31, $51 and $102.
If you don’t mind a short
drive in the car, there’s also good antiquing in the areas around Atlantic
City. Explore “Antique Alley,” the Route 9 corridor stretching from about 12 miles
north of Atlantic City, south to Cape May. We headed out in the car one rainy,
windy afternoon and stumbled upon a few hidden gems. The first being Days of
Olde Antiques Center at Smithville located along the northern section of Route
9. Room upon room is filled with items such as jewelry, china dishes, silver,
toys and furniture. We also spotted Seafarer in the city of Galloway, which
features antiques with a nautical bent. Most of the antique stores are in Cape May,
about an hour’s drive south from Atlantic City. Antique buffs will also enjoy
the Atlantic City Antiques Show, held March 10-11 at the Atlantic City
Convention Center.
To round out your day trip,
check out the nearby Towne of Historic Smithville and Village Greene – a quaint
setting of more than 60 shops and four restaurants as well as Renault winery in
Egg Harbor City; both are about 25 miles from Atlantic City. And art lovers
will enjoy Noyes Museum of Art of Richard Stockton College in nearby
Oceanville. Atlantic City also offers its own Atlantic City Historical Museum,
but be sure to call ahead before your visit as they close in bad weather, as do
other attractions on the boardwalk. Take another look at Atlantic City for a
weekend destination during the cooler months. As Zamansky notes, “There’s
always a fun reason to visit.”
For more
information, visit atlanticcitynj.com.
HIP AND HISTORIC
Federal Hill & Fell’s Point
By Emily Parks
Originally published in December 2011
Once you’ve answered the age-old
question of “What are we going to get our family members for the holidays,”
there’s the question of, “What are we doing to DO with our family members
during the holidays?” How about checking out some downtown areas found right in
your own backyard? As a former Federal Hill resident for 13 years, I can tell
you in addition to the Inner Harbor, there’s much to enjoy in the way of
shopping, dining and cultural attractions in the surrounding neighborhoods of
Federal Hill and Fell’s Point. By foot is still the best way to see the city.
But parking in the Inner Harbor is never cheap, so consider parking in Federal
Hill, a neighborhood just south of the Inner Harbor. It still puts you close to
everything but you’ll pay less to park your car. Most street parking in Federal
Hill is only for two hours, so your best bet is the West Street parking garage,
located at 40 E. West St., between Light and Charles Streets. Parking garages
in the Inner Harbor will max out at $20, while the max for the West Street
garage is only $14.

As you leave the West
Street parking garage and make your way north on Charles Street, be sure to
duck into Cross Street Market (bpmarkets.com/crs1.html.) As you enter the
market you’ll be enticed by the warm, spicy smell of Old Bay seafood spice
wafting from Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood and Oyster Bar. George Hastings,
two-time winner of the National Oyster-Shucking Championship, hailed from
Nick’s. Cross Street Market, the centerpiece of Federal Hill, was established
in the 19th century and one of five public markets in the city. The Market is
the only place where you can get accessories for your cell phone, fresh
flowers, tiny dark chocolate crabs or a pound of steamed mussels all in one
place. While enjoying a beer or a pound of steamed shrimp at Nick’s, you’ll see
a mix of parents with strollers as well as many generations of Baltimoreans.
Lining either side of Cross
Street Market are Charles and Light Streets. While Federal Hill has a vibrant
bar scene, upscale clothing boutiques, eclectic restaurants and even a comic
book store, Alliance Comics, can be found on these main streets. Don’t overlook
the Book Escape, a used bookstore that carries many current popular titles. But
if you’d really like to learn about the neighborhood, give yourself an hour or
two to enjoy the Federal Hill walking tour and learn about the architecture and
history of the neighborhood. Stop into the office of Historic Federal Hill Main
Street located at 42. E. Cross St., (historicfederalhill.org) and pick up the
brochure “Historic Federal Hill Walking Tour,” which provides an interesting
history of the buildings not only in the business district but also in the
neighboring communities. The brochure provides an easy path to follow on this
self-guided tour. Interesting sights noted in the brochure include the
“Cock-eyed block” of houses set diagonally on Montgomery Street, a house that
served as General Butler’s headquarters during the Civil War, and an example of
one of the few remaining wooden houses after 1804 – construction of wooden
houses in built-up areas within the city was forbidden due to the risk of fire.
If you’re hungry after your
informative walk, a local dining favorite is Regi’s American Bistro
(regisamericanbistro. com) at 1002 Light St. A neighborhood fixture since 1978,
this quintessential pub-restaurant offers a full and eclectic menu. One
standout is the Original AJ’s Tater Tots, which are old-fashioned tater tots
stuffed with melted brie and apple wood bacon. These tots earned the award of
Best Side Dish by “Baltimore Magazine” in 2010. Other standouts include the
crab cake sandwich and peanut Thai salad. 
Walking north on Light
Street and making a right onto Key Highway will lead you to a popular cultural
landmark in Federal Hill, the American Visionary Art Museum (AVAM.) Located at
800 Key Highway, AVAM (avam.org) is the farthest thing from a stuffy museum
filled with old relics. AVAM celebrates the visionary artist who, according to
their mission, creates “art produced by self-taught individuals, usually
without formal training, whose works arise from an innate personal vision that
revels foremost in the creative act itself.” Current exhibits include the
Visionary Village, a massive exhibition area for large sculptures and art cars,
as well as exhibits such as Baltimore’s famed Screen Painters and Emily Duffy’s
5-foot-diameter Bra Ball, all located on the first level of the Jim Rouse
Visionary Center. Be sure to say hi to the enormous 15-foot-tall Fifi, the
pink-poodle-with-wheels, at the museum. If you are looking for a warm libation
or a bite to eat, head to Mr. Rain’s Fun House, a cool, sexy restaurant located
in the museum.
After you’ve thoroughly
immersed yourself in Federal Hill, wander north down to the Inner Harbor. If
you happen to have your easily bored 8-year-old niece or any other children
with you, check out the Maryland Science Center (mdsci.org.) Too many
children’s museums tend to dumb it down to accommodate young attendees, but not
at the Maryland Science Center. The exhibits are truly hands-on, whether you’re
dusting for dinosaur bones or playing tug-of-war with a giant rope and pulley
system. If you happen to be in town on New Year’s Eve, check out their “New
Year’s at Noon.” The event is a huge party crowd of children dancing to a live
children’s band while dancing among confetti when the ball drops at noon. No
alcohol for the parents, however.
As you continue north into
the Inner Harbor, follow the lights of Santa’s House setting the harbor aglow.
With environmentally-friendly, energy saving LED lights, this free light show
is choreographed to favorite holiday tunes. The light show is featured about
every half hour in the evenings.
Walking from one neighborhood
to the next can get exhausting. Luckily there’s the city’s newest
transportation option, the Charm City Circulator (CCC). The CCC is a fleet of
free shuttles that travel three routes in Baltimore City: the Purple route,
which runs from Penn Station to Federal Hill; the Orange route, which runs from
Hollins Market to Harbor East; and the new Green route, which runs from City
Hall to Fell’s Point to Johns Hopkins. Route maps, stop closures and additional
information are available at charmcitycirculator. com/content/route-maps.
Located east of the Inner
Harbor, Fell’s Point is an old wharf town with Belgian stone streets and
eclectic 18th-century rowhomes. First settled in 1726, today the neighborhood’s
main square on Broadway is lined with funky shops, pubs and restaurants,
anchored at the north end by Broadway Market, where food vendors have been
active since the market was first established in 1784. As you wander down
toward the Broadway Pier at the foot of the square to watch the boats sail by,
take a quick detour west down Shakespeare Street. At 1607 Shakespeare St., snug
between the narrow homes, is the Fell Family Grave Market, a black granite
headstone for members of the founding family of Fell’s Point. Back in the
square, facing the water, is Thames Street, running east-west. Turn left down
Thames for the Fell’s Point Visitor Center, 1724-26 Thames St. Open daily, it’s
a great resource for those looking for additional information about the area.
Just around the corner, check out the Robert Long House at 812 S. Ann St. Built
in 1765, it is the oldest living residence in Baltimore.

Fell’s Point is filled with
dining options from casual pub fare to upscale eateries hailed by national
culinary magazines. A personal favorite is Kooper’s Tavern (koopers.com), which
offers standard burger, salad and appetizer fare. Be sure to glance across the
street at City Recreation Pier on the waterside of the 1700 block of Thames
Street. The pier served as a landing point for thousands of immigrants
processed across the river in Locust Point at the turn of the century. It’s now
most commonly known as the police headquarters for the network television
series, “Homicide: Life on the Street.”
Head east of the square to
Thames and Philpot Streets for one of the newest additions to the neighborhood,
the Frederick Douglass- Issaac Myers Maritime Park at 1417 Thames St.
Celebrating African-American maritime history, the museum spotlights the
achievements of Douglass and Myers, two prominent Baltimoreans in the 1800s.
Visit the museum’s boat workshop, adjacent to the main building, to observe
actual boats being built (douglassmyers.org).
If darkness if falling when
you take the Circulator back to your car in Federal Hill, stop by Federal Hill
Park located at the end of Warren Avenue. Every year, Federal Hill families
decorate a holiday tree in the park with lights and ornaments. The tree remains
lit for visitors to enjoy until after New Year’s.
So the next time you find
yourself heading downtown, make plans to enjoy the surrounding neighborhoods.
Next time, consider checking out Harbor East, Canton, Bolton Hill, Little Italy
or Mount Vernon and discover something new about the Baltimore City you thought
you already knew.
There are an
array of holiday events in both Fell’s Point and Federal Hill in December.
Visit historicfederalhill.org and fellspointmainstreet.org.
Williamsburg: Winter Escape
By Rita Baker-Schmidt
Originally published in Nov 2011
Williamsburg in winter
has a beauty all its own. As a dusting of snow covers the 18th-century
buildings and quaint decorations, the town downshifts from tourist destination
to early American delight. You don’t have to be a history buff to enjoy this
magical town where costumed interpreters and craftspeople bring the world of
Patrick Henry and George Washington to life. A stay in one of the town’s
Colonial Houses will put you literally on history’s doorstep.

Looking Back
In 1699, Governor Francis
Nicholson moved the capital from Jamestown to the Middle Plantation. His
statehouse had just been burned, again. The Middle Plantation was far enough
inland to be out of range from naval bombardment and the threat of malaria, but
close enough for river commerce. Already home to some of Virginia’s most
prominent political figures, it had a market, a school – William and Mary – and
a church – Bruton Parish. The government moved in, and the town was
rechristened Williamsburg.
Williamsburg remained Virginia’s capital city until the 1780s. With the
American Revolution raging, Governor Thomas Jefferson feared a British attack
and moved the government to Richmond. The English seized the city for four
months in 1781. The Red Coats left, and Washington and Lafayette moved in. “The
Frenchman’s Map,” a map used to billet the troops, was so detailed that it
became an American Rosetta Stone for 20th-century
renovations of the town.
Williamsburg would have
remained a quiet county seat had it not been for Dr. William A. R. Goodwin,
Rector of Bruton Parish Church. Goodwin’s dream was to restore his city to a
place where you could explore the cradle of American Democracy interactively.
He once said, “The best way to look at history is through its windows.” Goodwin
joined forces with local preservationists and enlisted John D. Rockefeller Jr.
as benefactor to restore the town’s 88 original buildings. The Frenchman’s Map
and modern aerial photographs outlined the town’s original layout. They moved
or demolished over 600 post-Revolution buildings to clear the historic
area.
Using wills and
inventories, they determined how to furnish the Colonial houses – 18th
century period pieces, like those in Colonial era paintings, were found in the
United States and in Europe, while craftsmen and artists, trained in period
restoration, reproduced the rest. Over 500 buildings have been
rebuilt or restored on the Colonial Williamsburg campus. In 1932, The Raleigh
Tavern was the first reconstructed building to open its doors to the
public. Reopening in 2009, The R.
Charlton Coffeehouse is the “newest” establishment in Williamsburg. Expect both a hot
beverage (tea, coffee or chocolate) and hotter conversation when you visit.
Planning Your Trip
The advantage to visiting
Williamsburg in the winter is that you don’t have to fight the heat, the
humidity or the crowds. The staff, which is always pleasant, seems extra
approachable in winter. “There are more than 30 new programs for the season and
100 events in total,” says Erin Curtis from the Colonial Williamsburg
Foundation. One tour you won’t
want to miss is the “Christmas Decorations Walking Tour.” All the materials
used in the wreaths and bunting you’ll see were available to the 18th
century residents of city. For a DIY lesson in how to make those beautiful
wreaths, take “Williamsburg Decorating Ideas for Your Home” at the DeWitt
Wallace Museum.
Get an in depth behind
the scenes look at how the city was (and continues to be) restored with
“Rubbish, Treasures and Colonial Life, the Archaeology Labs.” At the
Courthouse, “Order in the Court!” will let you participate in an 18th- Century
trial, while tours of the Governor’s Palace and the Capitol will give you a
glimpse into Tory life and Patriot politics as the world was about to turn
upside down. Gillian Miller of
Sparks, who stayed with her family at the Robert Carter Kitchen, one of the
Colonial Houses, recommends seeing as much as you can during your stay. She
especially recommends the “Great Hopes Plantation” program, part of the
enslaved peoples experience. “It laid bare the tragedy of slavery and
celebrated the accomplishments of the slaves in Williamsburg,” she says. “During
the holidays, there is always a variety of seasonal tours that complement
year-round tours,” says Curtis. She also suggests the “Holiday Memories Shadow
Puppet Show,” “Mr. Jefferson’s Musical Family” and the theatrical “The Walking
Statue, or, The Devil in the Wine Cellar.” You don’t have to take a tour to experience the city. There
is a lot to see and do by just walking down the street and stepping into a
store or shop. A flag in front of a building indicates it is open to the
public.

Where To Stay In Colonial Williamsburg
Accommodations at
Williamsburg, especially at the Inn and the Lodge, are top notch, but for a
truly intimate approach to the city, consider staying in one of the 26 Colonial
Houses. The Colonial Houses allow
guests to immerse themselves in the 18th century while enjoying convenient
access to the historic area. “Located on Duke of Gloucester Street and the
adjacent side streets, these original and reconstructed 18th-century buildings
are Colonial Williamsburg’s equivalent to oceanfront rooms,” says Curtis.
Room and maid service is
available, and you’ll have access to the hotel’s indoor pool, fitness center
and on-site parking. Breakfast is
at either the Inn or the Lodge. Ask about the Holiday Stories Package, which
includes lodging, breakfast, the “Holiday Decorations Tour” and more.
When Hunger Strikes
Each tavern in the
Historic Area offers a variation on the 18th-century
dining experience. Chowning’s Tavern, near the Courthouse, offers mid-day fare
for the common man with sandwiches and savory sides. At night the tavern adds
entertainment to the stew with minstrel led sing-a-longs and revolutionary-era
games for all. At the Capitol end
of town are the King’s Arms and Shields taverns. Catch the Fife and Drum Corps’
“Illumination of the Taverns” on Duke of Gloucester Street at 5:30pm before
heading inside these two iconic Williamsburg eateries. Nothing warms you up like
a nice bowl of Peanut Soup from King’s Arms Tavern. Entree favorites include
Game Pye and Maple and Whiskey Brined Pork Chops. Try the Brandy-Spiked Bread
Pudding with Warm Vanilla Bean Sauce for dessert. At Shields Tavern, you’ll
find Colonial dishes with a southern comfort twist. Look for BBQ ribs, seafood
gumbo and barnyard chicken. Christina Campbell’s Tavern is just east of the
Capitol. The menu here is seafood inspired. Don’t miss the black bottom pecan
pie to complete the meal. The Raleigh Tavern Bakery offers sandwiches for lunch
and pick up a souvenir mug of cider or hot chocolate at the Bakery. Free
refills are available at stands through out the Historic Area. The
Inn’s Regency Room, the Lodge Restaurant, the new Huzzah! BBQ Grille near the
Visitor’s Center, the Golden Horseshoe Clubhouse Grill and restaurants in
Merchant Square are all within reach, too.
Shop ’Till Ya Drop
The friendly merchants of
Williamsburg are happy to have you stop inside to warm up. The Golden Ball
jeweler offers reproduction 18th-century
jewelry in 14k gold and sterling silver. John Greenhow’s store stocks the same
kinds of goods that were available to Richard Henry Lee and Peyton Randolph.
Mary Dickinson’s Shop features items for the ladies, including hats, cloaks,
mitts and caps. The Prentis Store sells unique items made by Colonial
Williamsburg crafts people, and Tarpley’s Store is the place for the kids on your
shopping list. The Post Office offers printed materials, stamps, cards and
stationery. It is an official United States Post Office, so you can post your
letters and cards here. (There’s nothing like a hand cancelled Christmas card
from the Williamsburg Post Office.) The hotels and Visitor Center
have gift shops, and Merchant Square, as the name implies, hosts a kaleidoscope
of specialty stores including galleries, gift shops and a children’s clothing
boutique. If you’re looking for souvenirs, try King’s Treasure, or bring home
some Colonial inspired decor from Williamsburg At Home or Williamsburg
Celebrations.

“Leave time to interact
with interpreters in the Historic Area” says Curtis. From bumping into Thomas Jefferson to playing games on the
Palace Green, Williamsburg has a way of making history come alive. You many not
be a history buff when you begin your stay at Williamsburg, but if you take the
time to look through history’s windows, you may just leave as one.
Eastern Shore: Cool Temps, Warm Hospitality
Written by
Meredith Bower
Originally published October 2011
If you thought it was
time to pack the Eastern Shore away for the cooler months of the year, think
again. Maryland’s Talbot County,
a warm and welcoming year-round destination, peaks in autumn. The trees are
ablaze with stunning color, the crisp air is filled with the sounds of
migrating geese and an invigorating bike ride can lead to a well-deserved meal.
While some people
consider the Eastern Shore a summer haven for sailors and tourists, others are attracted
by the opportunity to hunt and fish. Then, there are those of us who are
literally charmed by the waterfront towns of Oxford, St. Michaels and Easton.
With plenty to see and do, the area is ideal for busy family day trips as well
as weekend get-a-ways where the itinerary simply includes relaxing and enjoying
what makes this part of the state appealing to both fishermen and financiers,
not to mention nationally known writers, actors and high-ranking government types.

Located just 30 minutes
from the Bay Bridge, the county features 171,000 acres of farmland outlined by 602
miles of shoreline. Each of Talbot County’s main towns has a distinct flavor,
and may easily be enjoyed as a whole or in bits and pieces. Once you discover
the area, you’ll want to make plans to return at different times of year, to
different towns, with different people. On
one visit you may find Oxford is perfect for a cozy, romantic get-away for two,
while Easton’s shops and galleries are ideal for “just the girls,” and active
St. Michael’s is perfect summer spot for families. The next time you visit, you
can change it up and enjoy a cooking demo in Oxford, a festival in Easton or a
spa treatment in St. Michaels.
Oxford: picturesque riverfront vistas
Oxford, one of Maryland’s
oldest towns, located on the Tred Avon River, is perhaps the most picturesque and
charming. For a small town, less than a mile long and half as wide, there’s a
lot going on. Morris Avenue, the main
drag, features a bookstore housed in the former bank, several churches, a
general store, the one-room Oxford Museum filled with history and artifacts, and
quaint homes with picket fences and front porches outfitted with rockers and
porch swings. In the center of the quiet town, you will find a waterfront park
with huge shade trees, picnic tables, benches and swings. Pop into the old
fashion Oxford Market, just across the street, for your picnic ingredients and
enjoy lunch by the water.
On the other side of
town, which is really just several blocks from the park, look for the Scottish Highland
Creamery (314 Tilghman St.). You know a place is good when it’s off the beat
and path, has no sign, is stuck on the corner of a waterside restaurant
(Schooner’s Landing), is surrounded by working boatyards and still, everyone
knows it and raves about it. The homemade ice cream and friendly service make
it a destination by land and water through the end of October.

If relaxation and good
food is your goal, the sleepy town of Oxford is definitely the place to be.
Sleepy, however does not mean it is tired. Some of the area’s finest restaurants are
located in Oxford, and chefs take advantage of the food harvested locally in
the fields and waters of the Chesapeake Bay. For a casual meal overlooking the
Tred Avon River, try the Masthead at Pier Street Marina. Pier side picnic
tables allow for great views, especially at sunset, and refreshing breezes.
While the Masthead closes for the winter months, its sister restaurant,
Latitude 38, open year round, is a favorite of locals and visitors alike.
Located on Oxford Road just before the town, in what was once a gas station,
the menu at the cozy bistro changes regularly.
At the other end of town, the historic Robert
Morris Inn has withstood the test of time and ever-changing economies in its
300-year history. The Inn features a dining room, perfect for special
occasions, and the more casual Salter’s Tavern with intimate brick alcoves and
a cozy fireplace. The two
restaurants have distinct menus, but come from the same kitchen under the
direction of well-known Chef Mark Salter, who also hosts cooking demonstrations
and wine tastings throughout the year. He says the vibrant atmosphere leads to many
happy customers, especially those who take advantage of Inn’s affordable
packages, which include both breakfast and dinner.
If your get-away is truly
about getting away, consider the Sandaway Bed and Breakfast, located just down the
road from the Robert Morris Inn, tucked away at the tip of the peninsula that
is Oxford. The waterfront rooms of the Victorian mansion are an ideal retreat.
Private porches offering sweeping views of the Tred Avon, and the shaded lawn,
dotted with Adirondack and lounge chairs is the perfect place to soak up the
sun, watch breathtaking sunsets and marvel at the ever-changing views of the
river as it laps up on the property’s small, sandy beach. A basket of breakfast
goodies and coffee is delivered your door each morning and may be enjoyed on the
lawn, in the library or the privacy of your room.
If your plans call for a
visit to the town of St. Michaels, the quick, scenic and fun way to travel is
aboard the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry. The ferry, which began operation in 1683,
runs from April through November and can accommodate nine cars as well as those
traveling by bike. The landing, located at the end of Morris Street, is easy to
find and the wait is usually short as the crossing only takes about five
minutes. After reaching the Bellevue side it’s seven miles into St. Michaels
through country roads and cornfields. Like Oxford, St. Michaels sits on the
water, but unlike its neighbor, the town’s main thoroughfare, Talbot Street, is
busy with one-of-a-kind shops, restaurants and galleries. The rich maritime history of the region
is celebrated at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and there are numerous
opportunities to explore the area by boat from a hands-on adventure on the
skipjack Rebecca T. Ruark to a narrated cruise aboard the St. Michaels Patriot.
If you like to combine a
bit of wine with your history, head to St. Michaels on Oct. 15-16 for the Fall Winefest
at St. Michaels where you can enjoy a variety of food offerings and over 100
wines at the Kemp House of the Old Brick Inn and on the Patriot cruise ship.
Easton: Artists’ haven
Of Talbot County’s main
towns, Easton, the county seat, has the most year-round residence, many of who
are attracted to the area for the variety of opportunities it offers. Not only
does Easton feel like the quintessential small town, it also rightfully claims
to be a center of arts and culture. Debbi Dodson of the Talbot County Office of
Tourism puts it this way: “Easton features metropolitan art, sophisticated
shopping, big city dining and small town charm.” A stroll through town
will reveal a variety of one-of-a-kind shops, and a dozen art galleries in
addition to the Academy Art Museum. The historic 400-seat Avalon Theatre, in the
center of town, is host to nationally recognized comedians and classical
musicians, as well as movies and the Metropolitan Opera broadcast, live in HD.
Be sure to check the
town’s calendar of events to discover the variety of activities that appeal to
every interest. When it comes to festivals,
Easton’s Waterfowl Festival, held annually on the second weekend of November,
attracts sportsmen and nature lovers alike. Crisp temperatures, thousands of
migrating Canadian Geese and the small town charm provide the perfect backdrop
for the Festival that features wildlife art in many different forms, retriever
and duck calling contests, Maryland food and wine, in addition to hunting and
fishing gadgets and gear. Proceeds from the festival benefit waterfowl and
wildlife habitat preservation, conservation and education.
When it comes to dining,
Easton offers food lovers a variety of innovative options prepared by chefs whouse
local ingredients to create menus that range from fusion to French and upscale
to down home. If you have to choose just one restaurant, try Mason’s on South
Harrison Street. The restaurant, a sunny yellow clapboard house with a blue
wrap-around porch features a menu, which is both comfortable and sophisticated.
An adjoining house is home to gourmet foods featuring Mason’s signature
chocolates, a coffee bar and cozy seating.

Biking in Talbot County
For some people,
strolling through the small towns is sufficient activity, but for others, the
flat terrain of the Eastern Shore is the perfect place for a bike ride. The
Talbot County Office of Tourism in Easton offers a map suggesting six different
routes exploring area history and beauty. Averaging 30 miles each, they include the popular
Easton/Oxford/ St. Michaels loop, recognized as one of the “Top 25
cycling routes in the country.” Many accommodations have bicycles available for
their guests and they may also be rented at Easton Cycle and Sport.
At first blush you may
think you can cover all of Talbot County in a weekend, and the good news is you
can’t. There is something about
the pace of the Eastern Shore towns that invites visitors to slow down, take it
all in and dream of what they will see and do the next time they come.
Discovering New York from a different
angle
By
Meredith Bower
Originally published September 2011
Over the last
few years my visits to New York City have increased exponentially. When one of
our children chose to go to college there, we were looking at least two trips
annually, but it’s gotten to the point where we don’t need her as an excuse to
visit. Our once occasional excursions to New York for a day or overnight have
become more frequent and full.
There was a time when we thought we knew the city because we could
navigate Midtown Manhattan. Over the years we had “done” the Empire State
Building, Statue of Liberty, Times Square and Central Park; and girlfriend
get-a-aways covered shopping and shows. But I quickly realized we had only
scratched the surface. With its five boroughs and countless neighborhoods, I
discovered you could see a different New York each time you visit.
getting there
From the
Baltimore area, it’s less than a four-hour drive to the “Big Apple.” But why
drive when, for a fraction of the cost, you can travel by bus? Both Megabus
(us.megabus. com), which leaves from the White Marsh Park and
Ride, and Bolt Bus (boltbus.com), which departs from Baltimore’s Penn Station,
are convenient, and they travel to and from New York numerous times daily. Prices range from $1 to $25 each way,
depending on when you book your trip. And, no, these are not sketchy, unreliable buses on which your fellow passenger may be a chicken. Your
reservation guarantees a seat, and both
coach buses
generally run on time and include free Wi-Fi.
By using the
bus you’ll save on gas, tolls and parking, not to mention wear and tear on the
car and your nerves. No matter how you get to New York, once you arrive, do
what the locals do and travel by subway, buses, trains, taxis or walk. Each is
a great way to see the city and capture its flavor. And, even though we’ve “been
there done that,” we never miss an opportunity to walk through Central Park,
Rockefeller Plaza and Times Square. You will always see something new or
uniquely New York. Where else but Times Square can you see the Naked Cowboy?
a three-hour
tour
Among the
things that make New York so appealing is how vibrant the City feels all day,
every day. Even if it’s not your first trip to the “city that never sleeps,”
the whirlwind of people, traffic, horns and whistles can make it difficult to
catch your breath and establish your bearings. Anyone in Midtown Manhattan with
a dazed look and map will be handed a flyer for a bus tour of the city. The
hop-on, hop-off feature of these double-decker buses can be useful, but they
don’t take you off the crowded streets or paint the big picture of the City.
For a complete
change in perspective, try the 3-hour Circle Line (circleline42.com) boat tour.
You’ll be amazed by the views and what you can learn about New York’s past and
present as you make your way around the island of Manhattan. Starting at Pier
83 on West 42nd Street, adjacent to
the aircraft carrier Intrepid, you’ll travel to Lower Manhattan and beyond
Ellis Island for an up close look at the Statue of Liberty. The boat then
travels up the East River, under the Brooklyn Bridge and past the United
Nations. At the top end of the island, the boat squeezes through Harlem, past
Yankee Stadium to the open waters of the Hudson River and under the George
Washington Bridge, where a small red lighthouse sits, seemingly completely out
of place.

At $36 per
adult, the different views of New York, the exposure to the familiar and
unfamiliar and the entertaining, live narrators make the three-hour trip worth
the time and the money.
a walk in
the park
It doesn’t have
to cost a lot to visit New York. Looking can be as much fun as buying and there
are so many opportunities to soak up the essence of city just by walking or
strolling. Of course, Central Park is the largest and most well-know open
space, but there are others, including a permanent greenway around most of
Manhattan’s perimeter, ideal for walking, jogging, biking, and in-line skating. Leave it to New Yorkers to turn some of the most run-down, unappealing
structures into trendy attractions. One of the newest is the High Line
(thehighline.org), a park and walkway built on the elevated freight train
tracks that once served the warehouses and factories in the Meat-Packing District. Currently, the
linear park stretches from below 12th Street to 30th Street along
10th Avenue, with future
sections under construction.
The path was
created with cement planks resembling railroad ties, beside which native
grasses, flowers and shrubs have been planted, reminiscent of the self-seeding
plants that grew for 25 years on the abandoned rail line. Below the High Line
are numerous exclusive shops and restaurants as well as the Chelsea Market (chelseamarket.com). The market, once the home of the National
Biscuit Company, aka Nabisco, has retained its industrial feel while becoming a
bustling retail food outlet with many one-of-a-kind shops. As the High Line evolves, so do activities both on the former tracks and
below it. Recent events include nature talks and star-gazing above, and a
temporary roller rink, an outdoor bar and gourmet food trucks below. Check the
calendar to see what’s happening when you plan to visit.
If you like
walking above street level, a stroll across the iconic Brooklyn Bridge
(brooklynbridge-park.org) is a must. Located on the east side of Lower
Manhattan, just above the Financial District, it is the one of the nation’s
oldest suspension bridges on which automobiles are confined to the bottom
level, and pedestrians and bicycles are restricted the top tier.
Once you reach
the other side, you’ll find plenty to do in Brooklyn, including the Brooklyn
Flea (brooklynflea.com), a market held every weekend in two different
locations. On Saturdays, from March to Thanksgiving, the market is held in Fort
Green, and on Sundays you’ll find the eclectic group of more than 100 vendors
in Williamsburg on the East River waterfront between 6th and 7th streets. In the winter, the Brooklyn Flea moves inside the former
Williamsburg Savings Bank on Hanson Place. Locations can be tricky to find, but
are worth the effort. Visit the website for directions by foot or subway and details
on other events such as the all-food Saturday “Smorgasburg” in Williamsburg and
the Holiday Market that operates from Thanksgiving to Christmas.
the bronx
Want to try
another borough? Consider an
excursion to the Bronx – it’s a cultural wonderland. The area around Fordham University’s
Rose Hill campus has the most highlights and is easy to reach from the City on
the Metro North Railroad (mta.info/mnr) from Grand Central Station. The
20-minute ride to the Fordham Road stop drops you outside the gates of the college.
Cross over the busy Fordham Road, to Arthur Avenue (arthuravenuebronx.com), New
York’s real “Little Italy” famous for its fresh, hard-to-find ingredients and
authentic flavors in the Italian market, restaurants and shops. The sights and
the smells, which run the gamut from sausages and snouts at the butcher shop to
conchs and clams at the fishmonger, will transport you to another place and
time. As you make your way down Arthur Avenue you’ll pass Teitel Brothers, a
tiny corner grocery store, jammed with traditional, fresh Italian delicacies; a
playground where kids and strollers are as common as retirees and bocce; and Tino’s,
a deli as popular with the locals as the college students who enjoy prepared
food at the communal tables that spill onto the sidewalk.

Just beyond a
few housewares shops, beauty parlors and bakeries, is the Italian Retail
Market. Unassuming on the outside, step inside to an old world style market.
From vendors hand-rolling cigars just inside the front door, to the old men
playing cards at table tucked in the corner, you’ll feel like you are in a
small Italian town. The market also features produce, butchers and, of course,
traditional pastas, ingredients for anti-pasta and sweets. Mike of Mike’s Deli
located toward the back of the market does a vigorous business by tossing in
some good-natured flirting with samples of meats, cheeses and oils. Within walking distance from Arthur Avenue are the Bronx Zoo
(bronxzoo.com) and the New York Botanical Garden (nybg.org). Both the Zoo, the world’s
largest in an urban setting, and the Botanical Garden with a dozen gardens and
a conservatory, are located on more than 250 acres apiece and deserve a day
each. While both are open year-round, plan your visit to Botanical Gardens
carefully, as things literally die down in the dead of winter, and the popular
train garden display sells out on the weekends during the holiday season.
Each time you
visit New York, make plans to drill down, uncover another layer and discover
something new. But, don’t forget to pass through your old favorite spots as
they always offer something different.
Rediscovering Frederick
By Mary
Medland,
Originally
written in May 2011
It was a cold
rainy Saturday in early March when my husband and I headed to Frederick. I had
probably not been there for 20 or so years and remembered it as a quaint, quiet
little place.
My, how things
have changed in a couple of decades. While still quaint and charming, Frederick
is chock full of upscale restaurants and one-of-a-kind antique stores, as well
as boutiques and art galleries. Oh, and of course, there is also plenty of history,
especially Civil War history, on this, the 150th anniversary of the beginning
of the war.
After parking
in a municipal lot, we headed to Firestone’s Market, which is adjacent to
Firestone’s Culinary Tavern on North Market Street, for coffee. The market has
a wealth specialty foods and gifts, including pates, teas, tapenades, wine and
chocolate, as well as imported beer. Connoisseurs can choose from a variety of
Greek olive oils on tap. From there we stopped at the Visitor’s Center. (By the time this article
appears in print the staff will have moved to the brand new Tourism Council of
Frederick County Visitor’s Center at 151 S. East St. The new center will be
significantly larger, and its theatre will present “A Turn of the Wheel,” an
orientation film about the history of Frederick, as well as its other
attractions.)
On weekends from May through October, there are guided 90-minute walking
tours of historic buildings. For times, contact the Museum of Frederick County
History (301- 663-1188). As the staff points
out, Frederick is an easy drive from Washington, D.C. and Baltimore, making it
a great choice for day tripping or for an overnight visit. And, while we did
not stay the night, there are plenty of places – B&Bs, hotels, motels and
guest houses – to get a good night’s sleep. Most of the historic buildings – including Ramsey House, Trinity Chapel
and the Tyler Spite House – are clustered along E. Church Street, although
there are also several on E. Patrick Street, which is one block parallel to
Church. One of the town’s most impressive buildings is Winchester Hall at 11 E.
Church Street. Dating back to 1843, the Greek Revival building was the home of
the Frederick Female Seminary, which eventually became Hood College. As today
it serves as municipal offices, it is not open to the public.

From there, we
decide to head for All Saints’ Episcopal Church at 106 W. Church Street, the
house of worship for many noted Marylanders, including Francis Scott Key. This
gorgeous building is the third home of the church and was completed in 1855
under the director of architect Richard Upjohn. Without a doubt, the most
striking thing about this beautiful Gothic building is its’ stained glass
windows, a number of which were the work of Louis Comfort Tiffany. In the
refectory windows the Apostles are depicted, while others include characters
from the Bible. Behind the elegant high altar is a three-panel stained glass. At this point, my husband and I opt for lunch. We check out the menus on
a number of windows – Acacia Fusion Bistro has a breaded pork tenderloin with
mushroom sour cream gravy, bacon spaetzle and braised red cabbage; Café Anglais
advertises itself as a Traditional British Team Room with fish, chips and mushy
peas – before settling on The Tasting Room.
At the corner
of Church and Market streets, The Tasting Room has floor-to-ceiling windows and
the crisp, clean feel of a Parisian bistro. I meant to ask about the bread,
which was absolutely delicious, but forgot. In any case, the restaurant was the
perfect choice and is clearly a favorite with the locals. I ordered the country
pate (veal, pork, pistachio nuts, meaux mustard, garnitures), while my spouse
opted for the Power Lunch (pan-roasted filet mignon, toasted brioche,
horseradish sauce and Old Bay French fries). We both agreed with what the great
food writer, Calvin Trillin, who once quoted one of his daughters as having
said, if memory serves me, “My tongue is smiling.”
After lunch, we
decide to check out some of the stores in the his- toric district. A few of our favorites include Tiara Day and Lebherz Oil
& Vinegar Emporium. Located at 153 N. Market Street, Tiara Day owner, Maria
Peck, describes her boutique as “where vintage glamour meets Paris romance with
a twist of Gothic Beauty” and alternately as “the place where girlfriends shop.”
Or as another customer in the store put it, “Wow. This is the kind of place
where the best-dressed Parisian mistresses would shop.” Tiara Day has lingerie that one probably won’t find anywhere else,
jewelry, French perfume, vintage sheet music and a plethora of other unique
items.
Just a block or
so away at 214 N.Market St. is Lebherz Oil & Vinegar Emporium. Maggie
Lebherz opened her store just a few months ago, and became so successful that
her mother quit her job to work for her entre- preneurial daughter, a University of Maryland Baltimore County alum who
became obsessed with oil and vinegar while visiting Europe. With 48 varieties of olive oil and vinegar on tap, visitors have the
opportunity to taste what is for sale before making a decision about blackberry
ginger balsamic vinegar or wild mushroom & sage fused extra virgin oil.
Once a decision is made, Lebherz individually bottles the oil or vinegar,
pointing out that her oil and vinegars are as fresh as possible and adding that
what one buys on the grocery store shelf may have been bottled a couple of
years ago. (Once we returned home, we became converts. Never again anything off
the grocery store shelves. And the aroma of blackberry ginger balsamic vinegar
lingers in the kitchen for days ... a good thing.)

We have been
told to not miss the trompe l’oeil or “trick the eye” wall murals by William
Cochran. There are several, including “Earthbound” at the southwest corner of
W. Church and N. Market Streets and another on the old firehouse. But perhaps
the most impressive is the concrete bridge over Carroll Creek that Cochran
painted to make look like it is constructed out of stone. Not only has Cochran
painted the bridge, but he has also worked his magic on the concrete walls
underneath.
Finally, we
decide to take a gander at the Barbara Fritchie House Museum at 154 W. Patrick
Street. Adults of a certain age can still remember “Shoot if you must this old
gray head, but spare your country’s flag she said,” immortalized in the poem “Barbara
Fritchie” by John Greenleaf Whittier. Although privately
owned and not open to the public, the entire poem can be seen on the historic
Civil War Trail market by the house. It is now getting
late and the weather is not cooperating, so we head for home. But with a
resolution to return anon.
Side Trip:
Monocacy National Battlefield

On the
battlefield, there is the L’Hermitage Slave Village, an archaeological site
associated with the Vincendieres’ family plantation at the Best Farm. The site
was first discovered in 2003, and while some archaeological efforts were
undertaken then, it wasn’t until 2010 that an intense investigation began,
which located six slave quarters. The Monocacy Cultural Resources staff, led by
archaeologist Joy Beasley, currently is preparing a report on the artifacts
they discovered last year and will continue their work during the summer of
2011. Excavators have found tools, food remains, and
personal items such as buttons and beads, and domestic objects, all of which
give researchers information about life at L’Hermitage. Consider that much can
be found out about life by examining foodstuffs. Just what were the slaves
eating? According to archaeologists, there was a preference for beef and pork,
and oysters.
For more information, visit www.nps.gov/mono. Photo
Courtesy of National Park Service.
The Fabulous Finger
Lakes
By Gregory J. Alexander Originally published July 2010
We’re in the heart of
summer, time for beach season, cookouts and at times, bored teenagers claiming
that there is “nothing to do.” So, maybe it’s time to plan that next weekend
getaway – one that involves a moderately short drive and can serve as a welcome
respite from the hot and humid weather we experience here in August and
sometimes into September or a fall getaway to see the colors.

Usually in the latter part
of the summer, when the AC units are running non-stop and sailing on the Bay is
a drag with no wind to push you along, we head up north to New York’s Finger
Lake region, a quick five-hour drive up I-83 to I-81 to visit my partner’s
parents who live in Skaneateles, N.Y. (it took me several years to learn how to
pronounce, let alone spell, their hometown). We’ve also visited for
Thanksgiving, and no matter when we go, I am always awestruck by the natural
beauty of the area.
The Finger Lakes area
cover 9,000 square miles from Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania border and
consists of 11 skinny-looking glacial lakes that dot central New York. The
region also includes the Erie Canal, Lake Ontario, over 1,000 waterfalls and
ample rivers. Charming villages hug the shoreline, while big cities like Rochester
and Syracuse offer exciting urban flair.
The picturesque lakeside
town of Skaneateles is a great place to use as your base when exploring the
region. There are several B&Bs and inns in the village, while larger hotels
can be found just outside of town. Be forewarned, though, that it’s important
to book accommodations in advance of your trip, especially in the summer
months, when weddings and reunions can monopolize many of the rooms in town.
The Mirbeau Inn & Spa and The Sherwood Inn are two of the most popular
choices with the Sherwood conveniently located right on Genesee Street,
Skaneateles’ “Main Street” where the lion’s share of shops and restaurants can
be found, and with a nice view of Skaneateles Lake. Stroll along Genesee Street
and admire the beautiful lakefront homes and check out some of the cute shops
along the way, including a handful of antique stores, Aristocats and Dogs for
pet gifts, Rhubarb Kitchen and Garden Shop and Roland’s, a favorite shop of
mine as the old-time charm and great deals on men’s clothing makes this a must
stop for me each visit. Not far off Genesee Street is Creekside Books and
Coffee, a relatively new addition to the village. Although you must drive, you
must also visit New Hope Mills, where you can buy world famous pancake mix,
spices, cookies, bread and much more – all at incredible prices.

For dining, most
restaurants are an easy walk from The Sherwood Inn. The Krebs is a Skaneateles
tradition for over 100 years with casual fare served upstairs and upscale
dining downstairs. For seafood, Doug’s Fish Fry is nationally known and is
packed in the summer, or try Bluewater Grill with its beautiful lake views or
Johnny Angel’s Heavenly Burgers for an unforgettable burger. My personal dining
favorite is Joe’s Pasta Garage, which has excellent Italian fare in a unique
setting (a former gas station). The portions are enormous, so you might want to
consider splitting an entrée with a salad. Whether you are staying at The
Sherwood or not, the inn’s restaurant is also a favorite of mine with its
extensive menu featuring regional cuisine. Casual dining can be had at The
Tavern, while fine dining can be enjoyed in the dining room or the Lakeview
Porch. Either way, definitely try the French onion soup and the filet mignon!

For outdoor entertainment,
consider checking out a polo match, held at the Skaneateles Polo Club Sundays
at 3pm in July and August. Of course, you also want to get out on the lake. The
family-owned and operated Mid-Lakes Navigation Company (midlakesnav.com) offers
several different cruising tours of the lake through early October and allows
you to view the beautiful mansions that dot the shoreline and admire the
crystal clear water. The company offers a Champagne Dinner Cruise, a shorter
“Take Out” Cruise where you can bring your own dinner, “Dinosaur Dinner Cruise”
featuring Syracuse’s award-winning Dinosaur Bar-BBQ, brunch cruises and the
“U.S. Mailboat” cruise, where you get to take part in the age-old tradition of
mail delivery via boat. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, you can also
rent a sailboat, powerboat, canoe or kayak through The Sailboat Shop
(thesailboatshop.com).
Speaking of boats, one of
Skaneateles’ biggest annual events is the Antique and Classic Boat Show in July
with classic mahogany and wooden boats on display, as well as concerts, kids’
activities and a village tour. If you are traveling here during the holidays,
don’t miss “Dickens Christmas,” which begins the day after Thanksgiving with
weekend activities and costumed characters strolling through town.
There are also countless
daytrips from Skaneateles to consider. History buffs are in luck, as the region
is rich in history, including Native American history as evidence by many of
the names of the towns and lakes here. In nearby Auburn, there are several
African-American history sites, including the Harriet Tubman Home, where the
famed abolitionist lived after purchasing the home from her friend
William H. Seward, an illegal transaction at the time. Speaking of Seward, the
former governor and senator of New York, as well as Secretary of State under
Lincoln and Andrew Johnson, his gorgeous home and gardens in Auburn is also
open to the public where you can learn more about the man who also coordinated
the purchase of Alaska and used his home to hide runaway slaves. At nearby Fort
Hill Cemetery, one can see the graves of both Tubman and Seward.
The Finger Lakes region is also steeped
in women’s history. In Seneca Falls, the “Birthplace of Women’s Rights,” tour
the National Women’s Hall of Fame and the Women’s Rights National Historical
Park. It was in Seneca Falls in 1848 that 300 men and women gathered, including
Elizabeth Cady Stanton (a Seneca Falls resident), to hold the first Women’s
Rights Convention. The Susan B. Anthony House is also located nearby in
Rochester.

Architectural history fans will delight
in visiting the Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion State Historic Park in
Canandaigua. The 1887 Queen Anne-style mansion boasts 40 rooms and stunning
gardens. There are myriad cultural opportunities as well in the Finger Lakes
region, which is home to more than 80 art galleries, the Merry-Go- Round
Playhouse in Auburn and The Corning Museum of Glass, the world’s largest glass
museum, featuring 35 centuries of glass artistry, live glassblowing
demonstrations, Make Your Own Glass experiences for all ages and an
international GlassMarket. It is also boasts the Rakow Research Library, which
is the library of record on glass and glassmaking, and The Studio, a highly
respected glassmaking school. For more traditional arts, visit the
MacKenzie-Childs production studio, set on a 65-acre former dairy farm
overlooking Cayuga Lake. The famed home furnishings company is known best for
its trademark checkered board pattern.
Of course, in a region so stunningly
beautiful and unspoiled, a trip to the Finger Lakes necessitates participating
in some outdoor fun, which is easy to do with 26 state parks, more than 2,000
miles of hiking/biking trails and 160 golf courses. Taking to the back roads
and admiring the pastoral landscape is also soothing, and the region’s 50-plus
farmers’ markets are also fun to check out.
No matter what part of the Finger Lakes
you’re exploring, there has to be a park to hike, bike, walk or even kayak. My
favorite is Watkins Glen State Park, located not far from Ithaca, N.Y. There
are trail options, but most popular is the 1.5-mile Gorge Trail where you can
marvel at the 200-foot cliffs and 19 glistening waterfalls along the way (it
can get a bit chilly and wet along the trail, so dress appropriately). You can
walk up the trail from the main entrance and back, or for a more leisurely
walk, you can take the shuttle ($3) back down to the main entrance or park at
the upper entrance, hike down and shuttle back to the top.
If you head to Watkins Glen, try to
squeeze in a stop in Ithaca, a charming town that is home to Cornell
University. The campus is quite beautiful, and the school also houses the
Sapsucker Woods Bird Sanctuary. Grab lunch downtown and sit outside if the
weather is nice. Speaking of birds, the Montezuma Audubon Center, part of the
new Montezuma Wetlands Complex along with the Montezuma National Wildlife
Refuge in Savannah, is a natural itinerary item for birdwatchers. The Center’s
trails wind through 450 acres of managed marshes, grasslands, upland and wet
woods, pond and creek habitats. There is an observation platform that overlooks
a marsh where you can spot red-tailed hawks, osprey, red-winged blackbirds and
swallows, among others. Migrating shore birds also visit Montezuma in early
July and late August.
If you are more into wine than warblers,
you’re in luck, too, as there are over 100 wineries in the Finger Lakes region
(New York ranks third in wine production in the country behind California and
Washington), featuring a variety of varietals, including excellent Rieslings.
There are four wine trails, countless events and festivals, and most wineries
offer tours and tastings. You can also visit the New York Wine & Culinary
Center in Canandaigua, also home to the before-mentioned Sonnenberg Gardens
& Mansion, for lectures and hands-on classes. Several tour companies offer
chauffeured tours in limousines or party buses and you can partake in a
customized tour or choose from a pre-packaged itinerary. For more information on the region and to
help plan your trip, visit fingerlakes.org and skaneateles.com.
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