Off-Season Fun in Atlantic City

By Emily Parks
Originally published in February 2012

Atlantic City is one of America’s playgrounds; this city entertains millions during the peak summer months with its casino gambling, miles of beaches and Vegas-style entertainment venues. But Atlantic City is also a year-round destination vacation, with much to offer during the fall and winter months.

 

Elaine Zamansky, media relations manager with the Atlantic City Convention and Visitors Authority, notes, “Atlantic City is an exciting destination any time of year. Obviously, the summer offers beach activities, outdoor dining and other events that aren’t suitable for colder weather, but the rest of the year there are myriad events like Atlantic City Restaurant Week, the rodeo, special holiday celebrations and public events at the Atlantic City Convention Center.”

 

Accommodations in Atlantic City run the gamut to fit any budget, from hotels, motels and inns to the incredibly stylish Vegas-style casino resorts. Many resort casinos now flood the landscape, such as Caesar’s Atlantic City, Harrah’s Atlantic City and the Trump Taj Mahal Casino Resort, but the Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa is helping Atlantic City reinvent itself as the Las Vegas of the East. A crown jewel of the city, the Borgata became the city’s first new casino in over a decade when it opened in 2003. The casino hotel’s 2,000-plus rooms and suites are bathed in customized lighting, 300-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets and spacious white marbled bathrooms with a shower for two. Celebrated chefs Bobby Flay, Michael Mina and Wolfgang Puck comprise some of Borgata’s stellar lineup of fine dining restaurants with Bobby Flay Steak, Seablue and Wolfgang Puck American Grille. For foodies, in the fall the Borgata offers SAVOR BORGATA Restaurant Week, where each restaurant located in the casino hotel is represented with their own culinary station, offering guests the exclusive opportunity to meet Borgata’s world class chefs while sampling their unique approach to cuisine paired with some of the best wine, beer and spirits.

 

The Borgata offers the excitement of casino gaming, its European-style 54,000-square-foot Spa Toccare as well as headline acts performing at Borgata’s entertainment venues. Guests could easily spend the entire time at the resort enjoying its whimsical opulence and never get bored. Shuttle service from the Borgata takes you right to the boardwalk, so all the boardwalk amenities are still within arm’s reach.

 

When hunger strikes, Atlantic City has dining options to fit any budget, from sleek fine dining options available at the casino resorts to an Atlantic City institution, White House Sub Shop. Located off the boardwalk a few blocks behind the beachfront casinos, it is a shoebox sized funky little place that has been around since the mid- to late 1940s. And the shop has the memorabilia to prove it, including Frank Sinatra’s towel used in his last show in Atlantic City. Many swear by the cheese steak or the Italian sub, but with any of their massive overstuffed sandwiches, you’ll walk away more than satisfied.

 

As for activities for the non-gamers, or those who just need a break from gaming, plenty of other activities abound. For the athletic types, the cooler fall months bring the Atlantic City marathon in October. The event also offers a half marathon, 10k and 5k, with the race course winding past boardwalk attractions and showcasing historic landmarks, including Lucy the Elephant, Boardwalk Hall and all 11 casinos before meandering through sleepy beach towns. The course is walker friendly for athletes who would rather amble along, taking in the sights on the course instead of setting a personal record.

 

For those looking to enjoy the outdoors but don’t feel like putting on a pair of running shoes, whale and dolphin watching provide an opportunity to see these majestic animals in their natural habitat. Atlantic City Cruises departs from Historic Gardener’s Basin on certain days during the months of September and October as well as April and May. Their Dolphin Watching Adventure features leaping, frolicking dolphins as you head into the open ocean in search of marine life. An onboard marine naturalist also provides educational commentary during the tour. Tours are usually at 1pm and last for approximately two hours with ticket prices at $34 for adults and $17 for children with discounts for seniors, military and students with ID. Nearby Cape May also offers whale watching through Cape May Whale Watcher.

 

For those of you more comfortable learning while on land, consider a trolley tour or a visit to the Atlantic City Aquarium. The Great American Trolley Company offers a Roaring 20s Tour, a four-hour tour that allows you to relive life in Prohibition-Era Atlantic City during the Golden Era of the 1920s, currently made popular by HBO’s Emmy-award winning show “Boardwalk Empire,” when the city was a premier draw, with its grant hotels, ‘Speakeasies,’ and freewheeling nightlife. Tour prices are $25 for adults and $20 for children. Add a side trip to Princeton Antiques Bookservice, which in addition to helping customers locate hard-to-find books, also has a vast collection of over 20,000 images of old Atlantic City. Spend hours browsing several decades’ worth of old photographs and postcards of the beach, boardwalk, businesses, piers, trolley and much more.

 

The Atlantic City Aquarium, located in Historic Gardner’s Basin, is a three-story aquarium and interactive marine life education center. With 11 tanks exhibiting more than 100 varieties of fish, visitors can observe the fish of the mid-Atlantic Ocean such as flounder and striped bass in addition to “Groman,” the resident loggerhead turtle. Peer at moray eels, venomous fish and live jellyfish as well. Touch tanks allow visitors to “pet” starfish, crabs, sharks and other sea life. In addition, a 16-station computer center uses interactive games and information stations to allow visitors to take a self-tour. The Atlantic City Aquarium is open daily, with admission prices at $8 for adults and $5 for children; kids 3 and under are admitted free.

 

Within walking distance from the Showboat Casino on the boardwalk is New Jersey’s tallest lighthouse, Historic Absecon Lighthouse. Ascend the 228 steps of the lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in the country. Take in breathtaking views of Atlantic City and see the original first-order Fresnel Lens, first lit in 1857. As part of the lighthouse’s recent multi-million dollar restoration, check out the replica of the Lightkeeper’s dwelling, and educational museum, gift shop and Fresnel Lens exhibit. Cost to climb the lighthouse is adults, $7 and children, $4; kids 3 and under are admitted free. Parking and admission to the Keeper’s House museum, exhibits and grounds is free.

 

 

In addition to warmer weather, spring also brings the Atlantic City Restaurant Week held March 4-10, a week-long celebration of delicious food presented by some of the talented chefs located in the Atlantic City area. With more than 70 restaurants participating with a $15.12 price for lunch and $33.12 for dinner, diners can try a new restaurant or enjoy an old favorite. Foodies may also enjoy the Atlantic City Beer Fest held at the end of March.

 

Another spring attraction is the Atlantic City boardwalk rodeo. Held March 31-April 1 in the Historic Boardwalk Hall Arena, this rodeo is the biggest on the East Coast, with seven events: bareback, tie down, saddle bronc, team roping, barrel racing, steer wrestling and bull riding along with the grand entry and additional specialty acts. Ticket prices are $16, $31, $51 and $102.

 

If you don’t mind a short drive in the car, there’s also good antiquing in the areas around Atlantic City. Explore “Antique Alley,” the Route 9 corridor stretching from about 12 miles north of Atlantic City, south to Cape May. We headed out in the car one rainy, windy afternoon and stumbled upon a few hidden gems. The first being Days of Olde Antiques Center at Smithville located along the northern section of Route 9. Room upon room is filled with items such as jewelry, china dishes, silver, toys and furniture. We also spotted Seafarer in the city of Galloway, which features antiques with a nautical bent. Most of the antique stores are in Cape May, about an hour’s drive south from Atlantic City. Antique buffs will also enjoy the Atlantic City Antiques Show, held March 10-11 at the Atlantic City Convention Center.

 

To round out your day trip, check out the nearby Towne of Historic Smithville and Village Greene – a quaint setting of more than 60 shops and four restaurants as well as Renault winery in Egg Harbor City; both are about 25 miles from Atlantic City. And art lovers will enjoy Noyes Museum of Art of Richard Stockton College in nearby Oceanville. Atlantic City also offers its own Atlantic City Historical Museum, but be sure to call ahead before your visit as they close in bad weather, as do other attractions on the boardwalk. Take another look at Atlantic City for a weekend destination during the cooler months. As Zamansky notes, “There’s always a fun reason to visit.”

For more information, visit atlanticcitynj.com.

HIP AND HISTORIC

Federal Hill & Fell’s Point

 By Emily Parks

Originally published in December 2011

Once you’ve answered the age-old question of “What are we going to get our family members for the holidays,” there’s the question of, “What are we doing to DO with our family members during the holidays?” How about checking out some downtown areas found right in your own backyard? As a former Federal Hill resident for 13 years, I can tell you in addition to the Inner Harbor, there’s much to enjoy in the way of shopping, dining and cultural attractions in the surrounding neighborhoods of Federal Hill and Fell’s Point. By foot is still the best way to see the city. But parking in the Inner Harbor is never cheap, so consider parking in Federal Hill, a neighborhood just south of the Inner Harbor. It still puts you close to everything but you’ll pay less to park your car. Most street parking in Federal Hill is only for two hours, so your best bet is the West Street parking garage, located at 40 E. West St., between Light and Charles Streets. Parking garages in the Inner Harbor will max out at $20, while the max for the West Street garage is only $14.

 

As you leave the West Street parking garage and make your way north on Charles Street, be sure to duck into Cross Street Market (bpmarkets.com/crs1.html.) As you enter the market you’ll be enticed by the warm, spicy smell of Old Bay seafood spice wafting from Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood and Oyster Bar. George Hastings, two-time winner of the National Oyster-Shucking Championship, hailed from Nick’s. Cross Street Market, the centerpiece of Federal Hill, was established in the 19th century and one of five public markets in the city. The Market is the only place where you can get accessories for your cell phone, fresh flowers, tiny dark chocolate crabs or a pound of steamed mussels all in one place. While enjoying a beer or a pound of steamed shrimp at Nick’s, you’ll see a mix of parents with strollers as well as many generations of Baltimoreans.

 Lining either side of Cross Street Market are Charles and Light Streets. While Federal Hill has a vibrant bar scene, upscale clothing boutiques, eclectic restaurants and even a comic book store, Alliance Comics, can be found on these main streets. Don’t overlook the Book Escape, a used bookstore that carries many current popular titles. But if you’d really like to learn about the neighborhood, give yourself an hour or two to enjoy the Federal Hill walking tour and learn about the architecture and history of the neighborhood. Stop into the office of Historic Federal Hill Main Street located at 42. E. Cross St., (historicfederalhill.org) and pick up the brochure “Historic Federal Hill Walking Tour,” which provides an interesting history of the buildings not only in the business district but also in the neighboring communities. The brochure provides an easy path to follow on this self-guided tour. Interesting sights noted in the brochure include the “Cock-eyed block” of houses set diagonally on Montgomery Street, a house that served as General Butler’s headquarters during the Civil War, and an example of one of the few remaining wooden houses after 1804 – construction of wooden houses in built-up areas within the city was forbidden due to the risk of fire.

 If you’re hungry after your informative walk, a local dining favorite is Regi’s American Bistro (regisamericanbistro. com) at 1002 Light St. A neighborhood fixture since 1978, this quintessential pub-restaurant offers a full and eclectic menu. One standout is the Original AJ’s Tater Tots, which are old-fashioned tater tots stuffed with melted brie and apple wood bacon. These tots earned the award of Best Side Dish by “Baltimore Magazine” in 2010. Other standouts include the crab cake sandwich and peanut Thai salad.

Walking north on Light Street and making a right onto Key Highway will lead you to a popular cultural landmark in Federal Hill, the American Visionary Art Museum (AVAM.) Located at 800 Key Highway, AVAM (avam.org) is the farthest thing from a stuffy museum filled with old relics. AVAM celebrates the visionary artist who, according to their mission, creates “art produced by self-taught individuals, usually without formal training, whose works arise from an innate personal vision that revels foremost in the creative act itself.” Current exhibits include the Visionary Village, a massive exhibition area for large sculptures and art cars, as well as exhibits such as Baltimore’s famed Screen Painters and Emily Duffy’s 5-foot-diameter Bra Ball, all located on the first level of the Jim Rouse Visionary Center. Be sure to say hi to the enormous 15-foot-tall Fifi, the pink-poodle-with-wheels, at the museum. If you are looking for a warm libation or a bite to eat, head to Mr. Rain’s Fun House, a cool, sexy restaurant located in the museum.

After you’ve thoroughly immersed yourself in Federal Hill, wander north down to the Inner Harbor. If you happen to have your easily bored 8-year-old niece or any other children with you, check out the Maryland Science Center (mdsci.org.) Too many children’s museums tend to dumb it down to accommodate young attendees, but not at the Maryland Science Center. The exhibits are truly hands-on, whether you’re dusting for dinosaur bones or playing tug-of-war with a giant rope and pulley system. If you happen to be in town on New Year’s Eve, check out their “New Year’s at Noon.” The event is a huge party crowd of children dancing to a live children’s band while dancing among confetti when the ball drops at noon. No alcohol for the parents, however.

 As you continue north into the Inner Harbor, follow the lights of Santa’s House setting the harbor aglow. With environmentally-friendly, energy saving LED lights, this free light show is choreographed to favorite holiday tunes. The light show is featured about every half hour in the evenings.

Walking from one neighborhood to the next can get exhausting. Luckily there’s the city’s newest transportation option, the Charm City Circulator (CCC). The CCC is a fleet of free shuttles that travel three routes in Baltimore City: the Purple route, which runs from Penn Station to Federal Hill; the Orange route, which runs from Hollins Market to Harbor East; and the new Green route, which runs from City Hall to Fell’s Point to Johns Hopkins. Route maps, stop closures and additional information are available at charmcitycirculator. com/content/route-maps.

Located east of the Inner Harbor, Fell’s Point is an old wharf town with Belgian stone streets and eclectic 18th-century rowhomes. First settled in 1726, today the neighborhood’s main square on Broadway is lined with funky shops, pubs and restaurants, anchored at the north end by Broadway Market, where food vendors have been active since the market was first established in 1784. As you wander down toward the Broadway Pier at the foot of the square to watch the boats sail by, take a quick detour west down Shakespeare Street. At 1607 Shakespeare St., snug between the narrow homes, is the Fell Family Grave Market, a black granite headstone for members of the founding family of Fell’s Point. Back in the square, facing the water, is Thames Street, running east-west. Turn left down Thames for the Fell’s Point Visitor Center, 1724-26 Thames St. Open daily, it’s a great resource for those looking for additional information about the area. Just around the corner, check out the Robert Long House at 812 S. Ann St. Built in 1765, it is the oldest living residence in Baltimore.

Fell’s Point is filled with dining options from casual pub fare to upscale eateries hailed by national culinary magazines. A personal favorite is Kooper’s Tavern (koopers.com), which offers standard burger, salad and appetizer fare. Be sure to glance across the street at City Recreation Pier on the waterside of the 1700 block of Thames Street. The pier served as a landing point for thousands of immigrants processed across the river in Locust Point at the turn of the century. It’s now most commonly known as the police headquarters for the network television series, “Homicide: Life on the Street.”

Head east of the square to Thames and Philpot Streets for one of the newest additions to the neighborhood, the Frederick Douglass- Issaac Myers Maritime Park at 1417 Thames St. Celebrating African-American maritime history, the museum spotlights the achievements of Douglass and Myers, two prominent Baltimoreans in the 1800s. Visit the museum’s boat workshop, adjacent to the main building, to observe actual boats being built (douglassmyers.org).

If darkness if falling when you take the Circulator back to your car in Federal Hill, stop by Federal Hill Park located at the end of Warren Avenue. Every year, Federal Hill families decorate a holiday tree in the park with lights and ornaments. The tree remains lit for visitors to enjoy until after New Year’s.

So the next time you find yourself heading downtown, make plans to enjoy the surrounding neighborhoods. Next time, consider checking out Harbor East, Canton, Bolton Hill, Little Italy or Mount Vernon and discover something new about the Baltimore City you thought you already knew.

There are an array of holiday events in both Fell’s Point and Federal Hill in December. Visit historicfederalhill.org and fellspointmainstreet.org.

Williamsburg in winter has a beauty all its own. As a dusting of snow covers the 18th-century buildings and quaint decorations, the town downshifts from tourist destination to early American delight. You don’t have to be a history buff to enjoy this magical town where costumed interpreters and craftspeople bring the world of Patrick Henry and George Washington to life. A stay in one of the town’s Colonial Houses will put you literally on history’s doorstep.

Get an in depth behind the scenes look at how the city was (and continues to be) restored with “Rubbish, Treasures and Colonial Life, the Archaeology Labs.” At the Courthouse, “Order in the Court!” will let you participate in an 18th- Century trial, while tours of the Governor’s Palace and the Capitol will give you a glimpse into Tory life and Patriot politics as the world was about to turn upside down.  Gillian Miller of Sparks, who stayed with her family at the Robert Carter Kitchen, one of the Colonial Houses, recommends seeing as much as you can during your stay. She especially recommends the “Great Hopes Plantation” program, part of the enslaved peoples experience. “It laid bare the tragedy of slavery and celebrated the accomplishments of the slaves in Williamsburg,” she says. “During the holidays, there is always a variety of seasonal tours that complement year-round tours,” says Curtis. She also suggests the “Holiday Memories Shadow Puppet Show,” “Mr. Jefferson’s Musical Family” and the theatrical “The Walking Statue, or, The Devil in the Wine Cellar.”  You don’t have to take a tour to experience the city. There is a lot to see and do by just walking down the street and stepping into a store or shop. A flag in front of a building indicates it is open to the public.

The friendly merchants of Williamsburg are happy to have you stop inside to warm up. The Golden Ball jeweler offers reproduction 18th-century jewelry in 14k gold and sterling silver. John Greenhow’s store stocks the same kinds of goods that were available to Richard Henry Lee and Peyton Randolph. Mary Dickinson’s Shop features items for the ladies, including hats, cloaks, mitts and caps. The Prentis Store sells unique items made by Colonial Williamsburg crafts people, and Tarpley’s Store is the place for the kids on your shopping list. The Post Office offers printed materials, stamps, cards and stationery. It is an official United States Post Office, so you can post your letters and cards here. (There’s nothing like a hand cancelled Christmas card from the Williamsburg Post Office.) The hotels and Visitor Center have gift shops, and Merchant Square, as the name implies, hosts a kaleidoscope of specialty stores including galleries, gift shops and a children’s clothing boutique. If you’re looking for souvenirs, try King’s Treasure, or bring home some Colonial inspired decor from Williamsburg At Home or Williamsburg Celebrations.

 
While some people consider the Eastern Shore a summer haven for sailors and tourists, others are attracted by the opportunity to hunt and fish. Then, there are those of us who are literally charmed by the waterfront towns of Oxford, St. Michaels and Easton. With plenty to see and do, the area is ideal for busy family day trips as well as weekend get-a-ways where the itinerary simply includes relaxing and enjoying what makes this part of the state appealing to both fishermen and financiers, not to mention nationally known writers, actors and high-ranking government types.

 


If relaxation and good food is your goal, the sleepy town of Oxford is definitely the place to be. Sleepy, however does not mean it is tired.  Some of the area’s finest restaurants are located in Oxford, and chefs take advantage of the food harvested locally in the fields and waters of the Chesapeake Bay. For a casual meal overlooking the Tred Avon River, try the Masthead at Pier Street Marina. Pier side picnic tables allow for great views, especially at sunset, and refreshing breezes. While the Masthead closes for the winter months, its sister restaurant, Latitude 38, open year round, is a favorite of locals and visitors alike. Located on Oxford Road just before the town, in what was once a gas station, the menu at the cozy bistro changes regularly. 

 
When it comes to dining, Easton offers food lovers a variety of innovative options prepared by chefs whouse local ingredients to create menus that range from fusion to French and upscale to down home. If you have to choose just one restaurant, try Mason’s on South Harrison Street. The restaurant, a sunny yellow clapboard house with a blue wrap-around porch features a menu, which is both comfortable and sophisticated. An adjoining house is home to gourmet foods featuring Mason’s signature chocolates, a coffee bar and cozy seating.

 

At $36 per adult, the different views of New York, the exposure to the familiar and unfamiliar and the entertaining, live narrators make the three-hour trip worth the time and the money.

Want to try another borough?  Consider an excursion to the Bronx – it’s a cultural wonderland. The area around Fordham University’s Rose Hill campus has the most highlights and is easy to reach from the City on the Metro North Railroad (mta.info/mnr) from Grand Central Station. The 20-minute ride to the Fordham Road stop drops you outside the gates of the college. Cross over the busy Fordham Road, to Arthur Avenue (arthuravenuebronx.com), New York’s real “Little Italy” famous for its fresh, hard-to-find ingredients and authentic flavors in the Italian market, restaurants and shops. The sights and the smells, which run the gamut from sausages and snouts at the butcher shop to conchs and clams at the fishmonger, will transport you to another place and time. As you make your way down Arthur Avenue you’ll pass Teitel Brothers, a tiny corner grocery store, jammed with traditional, fresh Italian delicacies; a playground where kids and strollers are as common as retirees and bocce; and Tino’s, a deli as popular with the locals as the college students who enjoy prepared food at the communal tables that spill onto the sidewalk.

Rediscovering Frederick

By Mary Medland,

Originally written in May 2011

 

It was a cold rainy Saturday in early March when my husband and I headed to Frederick. I had probably not been there for 20 or so years and remembered it as a quaint, quiet little place.

 

My, how things have changed in a couple of decades. While still quaint and charming, Frederick is chock full of upscale restaurants and one-of-a-kind antique stores, as well as boutiques and art galleries. Oh, and of course, there is also plenty of history, especially Civil War history, on this, the 150th anniversary of the beginning of the war.

 

After parking in a municipal lot, we headed to Firestone’s Market, which is adjacent to Firestone’s Culinary Tavern on North Market Street, for coffee. The market has a wealth specialty foods and gifts, including pates, teas, tapenades, wine and chocolate, as well as imported beer. Connoisseurs can choose from a variety of Greek olive oils on tap.  From there we stopped at the Visitor’s Center. (By the time this article appears in print the staff will have moved to the brand new Tourism Council of Frederick County Visitor’s Center at 151 S. East St. The new center will be significantly larger, and its theatre will present “A Turn of the Wheel,” an orientation film about the history of Frederick, as well as its other attractions.)

 

 On weekends from May through October, there are guided 90-minute walking tours of historic buildings. For times, contact the Museum of Frederick County History (301- 663-1188). As the staff points out, Frederick is an easy drive from Washington, D.C. and Baltimore, making it a great choice for day tripping or for an overnight visit. And, while we did not stay the night, there are plenty of places – B&Bs, hotels, motels and guest houses – to get a good night’s sleep. Most of the historic buildings – including Ramsey House, Trinity Chapel and the Tyler Spite House – are clustered along E. Church Street, although there are also several on E. Patrick Street, which is one block parallel to Church. One of the town’s most impressive buildings is Winchester Hall at 11 E. Church Street. Dating back to 1843, the Greek Revival building was the home of the Frederick Female Seminary, which eventually became Hood College. As today it serves as municipal offices, it is not open to the public.

 

From there, we decide to head for All Saints’ Episcopal Church at 106 W. Church Street, the house of worship for many noted Marylanders, including Francis Scott Key. This gorgeous building is the third home of the church and was completed in 1855 under the director of architect Richard Upjohn. Without a doubt, the most striking thing about this beautiful Gothic building is its’ stained glass windows, a number of which were the work of Louis Comfort Tiffany. In the refectory windows the Apostles are depicted, while others include characters from the Bible. Behind the elegant high altar is a three-panel stained glass. At this point, my husband and I opt for lunch. We check out the menus on a number of windows – Acacia Fusion Bistro has a breaded pork tenderloin with mushroom sour cream gravy, bacon spaetzle and braised red cabbage; Café Anglais advertises itself as a Traditional British Team Room with fish, chips and mushy peas – before settling on The Tasting Room.

 

At the corner of Church and Market streets, The Tasting Room has floor-to-ceiling windows and the crisp, clean feel of a Parisian bistro. I meant to ask about the bread, which was absolutely delicious, but forgot. In any case, the restaurant was the perfect choice and is clearly a favorite with the locals. I ordered the country pate (veal, pork, pistachio nuts, meaux mustard, garnitures), while my spouse opted for the Power Lunch (pan-roasted filet mignon, toasted brioche, horseradish sauce and Old Bay French fries). We both agreed with what the great food writer, Calvin Trillin, who once quoted one of his daughters as having said, if memory serves me, “My tongue is smiling.”

 

After lunch, we decide to check out some of the stores in the his- toric district. A few of our favorites include Tiara Day and Lebherz Oil & Vinegar Emporium. Located at 153 N. Market Street, Tiara Day owner, Maria Peck, describes her boutique as “where vintage glamour meets Paris romance with a twist of Gothic Beauty” and alternately as “the place where girlfriends shop.” Or as another customer in the store put it, “Wow. This is the kind of place where the best-dressed Parisian mistresses would shop.” Tiara Day has lingerie that one probably won’t find anywhere else, jewelry, French perfume, vintage sheet music and a plethora of other unique items.

 

Just a block or so away at 214 N.Market St. is Lebherz Oil & Vinegar Emporium. Maggie Lebherz opened her store just a few months ago, and became so successful that her mother quit her job to work for her entre- preneurial daughter, a University of Maryland Baltimore County alum who became obsessed with oil and vinegar while visiting Europe. With 48 varieties of olive oil and vinegar on tap, visitors have the opportunity to taste what is for sale before making a decision about blackberry ginger balsamic vinegar or wild mushroom & sage fused extra virgin oil. Once a decision is made, Lebherz individually bottles the oil or vinegar, pointing out that her oil and vinegars are as fresh as possible and adding that what one buys on the grocery store shelf may have been bottled a couple of years ago. (Once we returned home, we became converts. Never again anything off the grocery store shelves. And the aroma of blackberry ginger balsamic vinegar lingers in the kitchen for days ... a good thing.)

 

We have been told to not miss the trompe l’oeil or “trick the eye” wall murals by William Cochran. There are several, including “Earthbound” at the southwest corner of W. Church and N. Market Streets and another on the old firehouse. But perhaps the most impressive is the concrete bridge over Carroll Creek that Cochran painted to make look like it is constructed out of stone. Not only has Cochran painted the bridge, but he has also worked his magic on the concrete walls underneath.

 

Finally, we decide to take a gander at the Barbara Fritchie House Museum at 154 W. Patrick Street. Adults of a certain age can still remember “Shoot if you must this old gray head, but spare your country’s flag she said,” immortalized in the poem “Barbara Fritchie” by John Greenleaf Whittier. Although privately owned and not open to the public, the entire poem can be seen on the historic Civil War Trail market by the house. It is now getting late and the weather is not cooperating, so we head for home. But with a resolution to return anon.

 

Side Trip: Monocacy National Battlefield

 

 

On the battlefield, there is the L’Hermitage Slave Village, an archaeological site associated with the Vincendieres’ family plantation at the Best Farm. The site was first discovered in 2003, and while some archaeological efforts were undertaken then, it wasn’t until 2010 that an intense investigation began, which located six slave quarters. The Monocacy Cultural Resources staff, led by archaeologist Joy Beasley, currently is preparing a report on the artifacts they discovered last year and will continue their work during the summer of 2011. Excavators have found tools, food remains, and personal items such as buttons and beads, and domestic objects, all of which give researchers information about life at L’Hermitage. Consider that much can be found out about life by examining foodstuffs. Just what were the slaves eating? According to archaeologists, there was a preference for beef and pork, and oysters.

For more information, visit www.nps.gov/mono. Photo Courtesy of National Park Service.

 

The Fabulous Finger Lakes

 By Gregory J. Alexander

Originally published July 2010

 We’re in the heart of summer, time for beach season, cookouts and at times, bored teenagers claiming that there is “nothing to do.” So, maybe it’s time to plan that next weekend getaway – one that involves a moderately short drive and can serve as a welcome respite from the hot and humid weather we experience here in August and sometimes into September or a fall getaway to see the colors.

 Usually in the latter part of the summer, when the AC units are running non-stop and sailing on the Bay is a drag with no wind to push you along, we head up north to New York’s Finger Lake region, a quick five-hour drive up I-83 to I-81 to visit my partner’s parents who live in Skaneateles, N.Y. (it took me several years to learn how to pronounce, let alone spell, their hometown). We’ve also visited for Thanksgiving, and no matter when we go, I am always awestruck by the natural beauty of the area.

 The Finger Lakes area cover 9,000 square miles from Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania border and consists of 11 skinny-looking glacial lakes that dot central New York. The region also includes the Erie Canal, Lake Ontario, over 1,000 waterfalls and ample rivers. Charming villages hug the shoreline, while big cities like Rochester and Syracuse offer exciting urban flair.

 The picturesque lakeside town of Skaneateles is a great place to use as your base when exploring the region. There are several B&Bs and inns in the village, while larger hotels can be found just outside of town. Be forewarned, though, that it’s important to book accommodations in advance of your trip, especially in the summer months, when weddings and reunions can monopolize many of the rooms in town. The Mirbeau Inn & Spa and The Sherwood Inn are two of the most popular choices with the Sherwood conveniently located right on Genesee Street, Skaneateles’ “Main Street” where the lion’s share of shops and restaurants can be found, and with a nice view of Skaneateles Lake. Stroll along Genesee Street and admire the beautiful lakefront homes and check out some of the cute shops along the way, including a handful of antique stores, Aristocats and Dogs for pet gifts, Rhubarb Kitchen and Garden Shop and Roland’s, a favorite shop of mine as the old-time charm and great deals on men’s clothing makes this a must stop for me each visit. Not far off Genesee Street is Creekside Books and Coffee, a relatively new addition to the village. Although you must drive, you must also visit New Hope Mills, where you can buy world famous pancake mix, spices, cookies, bread and much more – all at incredible prices.

For dining, most restaurants are an easy walk from The Sherwood Inn. The Krebs is a Skaneateles tradition for over 100 years with casual fare served upstairs and upscale dining downstairs. For seafood, Doug’s Fish Fry is nationally known and is packed in the summer, or try Bluewater Grill with its beautiful lake views or Johnny Angel’s Heavenly Burgers for an unforgettable burger. My personal dining favorite is Joe’s Pasta Garage, which has excellent Italian fare in a unique setting (a former gas station). The portions are enormous, so you might want to consider splitting an entrée with a salad. Whether you are staying at The Sherwood or not, the inn’s restaurant is also a favorite of mine with its extensive menu featuring regional cuisine. Casual dining can be had at The Tavern, while fine dining can be enjoyed in the dining room or the Lakeview Porch. Either way, definitely try the French onion soup and the filet mignon!

For outdoor entertainment, consider checking out a polo match, held at the Skaneateles Polo Club Sundays at 3pm in July and August. Of course, you also want to get out on the lake. The family-owned and operated Mid-Lakes Navigation Company (midlakesnav.com) offers several different cruising tours of the lake through early October and allows you to view the beautiful mansions that dot the shoreline and admire the crystal clear water. The company offers a Champagne Dinner Cruise, a shorter “Take Out” Cruise where you can bring your own dinner, “Dinosaur Dinner Cruise” featuring Syracuse’s award-winning Dinosaur Bar-BBQ, brunch cruises and the “U.S. Mailboat” cruise, where you get to take part in the age-old tradition of mail delivery via boat. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, you can also rent a sailboat, powerboat, canoe or kayak through The Sailboat Shop (thesailboatshop.com).

 Speaking of boats, one of Skaneateles’ biggest annual events is the Antique and Classic Boat Show in July with classic mahogany and wooden boats on display, as well as concerts, kids’ activities and a village tour. If you are traveling here during the holidays, don’t miss “Dickens Christmas,” which begins the day after Thanksgiving with weekend activities and costumed characters strolling through town.

 There are also countless daytrips from Skaneateles to consider. History buffs are in luck, as the region is rich in history, including Native American history as evidence by many of the names of the towns and lakes here. In nearby Auburn, there are several African-American history sites, including the Harriet Tubman Home, where the famed abolitionist lived after purchasing the home from her friend William H. Seward, an illegal transaction at the time. Speaking of Seward, the former governor and senator of New York, as well as Secretary of State under Lincoln and Andrew Johnson, his gorgeous home and gardens in Auburn is also open to the public where you can learn more about the man who also coordinated the purchase of Alaska and used his home to hide runaway slaves. At nearby Fort Hill Cemetery, one can see the graves of both Tubman and Seward.

 The Finger Lakes region is also steeped in women’s history. In Seneca Falls, the “Birthplace of Women’s Rights,” tour the National Women’s Hall of Fame and the Women’s Rights National Historical Park. It was in Seneca Falls in 1848 that 300 men and women gathered, including Elizabeth Cady Stanton (a Seneca Falls resident), to hold the first Women’s Rights Convention. The Susan B. Anthony House is also located nearby in Rochester.

Architectural history fans will delight in visiting the Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion State Historic Park in Canandaigua. The 1887 Queen Anne-style mansion boasts 40 rooms and stunning gardens. There are myriad cultural opportunities as well in the Finger Lakes region, which is home to more than 80 art galleries, the Merry-Go- Round Playhouse in Auburn and The Corning Museum of Glass, the world’s largest glass museum, featuring 35 centuries of glass artistry, live glassblowing demonstrations, Make Your Own Glass experiences for all ages and an international GlassMarket. It is also boasts the Rakow Research Library, which is the library of record on glass and glassmaking, and The Studio, a highly respected glassmaking school. For more traditional arts, visit the MacKenzie-Childs production studio, set on a 65-acre former dairy farm overlooking Cayuga Lake. The famed home furnishings company is known best for its trademark checkered board pattern.

Of course, in a region so stunningly beautiful and unspoiled, a trip to the Finger Lakes necessitates participating in some outdoor fun, which is easy to do with 26 state parks, more than 2,000 miles of hiking/biking trails and 160 golf courses. Taking to the back roads and admiring the pastoral landscape is also soothing, and the region’s 50-plus farmers’ markets are also fun to check out.

No matter what part of the Finger Lakes you’re exploring, there has to be a park to hike, bike, walk or even kayak. My favorite is Watkins Glen State Park, located not far from Ithaca, N.Y. There are trail options, but most popular is the 1.5-mile Gorge Trail where you can marvel at the 200-foot cliffs and 19 glistening waterfalls along the way (it can get a bit chilly and wet along the trail, so dress appropriately). You can walk up the trail from the main entrance and back, or for a more leisurely walk, you can take the shuttle ($3) back down to the main entrance or park at the upper entrance, hike down and shuttle back to the top.

If you head to Watkins Glen, try to squeeze in a stop in Ithaca, a charming town that is home to Cornell University. The campus is quite beautiful, and the school also houses the Sapsucker Woods Bird Sanctuary. Grab lunch downtown and sit outside if the weather is nice. Speaking of birds, the Montezuma Audubon Center, part of the new Montezuma Wetlands Complex along with the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge in Savannah, is a natural itinerary item for birdwatchers. The Center’s trails wind through 450 acres of managed marshes, grasslands, upland and wet woods, pond and creek habitats. There is an observation platform that overlooks a marsh where you can spot red-tailed hawks, osprey, red-winged blackbirds and swallows, among others. Migrating shore birds also visit Montezuma in early July and late August.

If you are more into wine than warblers, you’re in luck, too, as there are over 100 wineries in the Finger Lakes region (New York ranks third in wine production in the country behind California and Washington), featuring a variety of varietals, including excellent Rieslings. There are four wine trails, countless events and festivals, and most wineries offer tours and tastings. You can also visit the New York Wine & Culinary Center in Canandaigua, also home to the before-mentioned Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion, for lectures and hands-on classes. Several tour companies offer chauffeured tours in limousines or party buses and you can partake in a customized tour or choose from a pre-packaged itinerary.

For more information on the region and to help plan your trip, visit fingerlakes.org and skaneateles.com.